Thank you!

Dear Readers,

Thank you, indeed. The number of page views crossed 15K on Nov. 1, 2016.

A compilation of the blog posts up to first quarter of 2016 has been published and is available on Smashwords, Amazon (Kindle store), and Google Books.

Friday, January 19, 2018

Agra Visit (IV)

Taj Mahal
(Continued from Part III of this post series)


It was a Monday and the Christmas day.  We got up very early in the morning, got ready and had our breakfast at the hotel.  The idea was to reach the Taj Mahal before 8 am.  We were told that the queue grows exponentially after that time.  Our Hotel was only about a kilometer from the East Gate and the car dropped us midway from where we had to walk down.

The East Gate, we were told is the best to enter the monument and is called by some as the VIP gate.  There are two other gates, West and South.  We noticed some Bharatpur style rickshaws (see the previous post) ferrying tourists from the parking lot to the Gate, but chose to walk down.

To our surprise the queue was already almost quarter of a kilometer long when we reached the gate.  We noticed a separate queue for ladies.  It was serpentine bending back on itself several times, while the queue for men was straight.  This gave us an impression that perhaps the ladies' queue was shorter and we asked the ladies to wait on some chairs lying in the lane and to join their queue a little later.

The queue moved quite slowly. Our spirits further sagged when the person behind us narrated the story of his visit the previous day.  He had had to return his tickets after a long long wait in the queue.  As the queue kept growing, we noticed some commotion ahead of us.  It was on account of people trying to jump the queue.

Then it occurred to us that we had the e-tickets only on one phone and we needed to put it on one more phone as the ladies will be in a separate queue.  It seems that they have jammers installed in that area and internet was not working on any of our phones.  It took many attempts to transfer the file through Bluetooth, but we finally did succeed.  And the ladies joined their queue as we approached it.

As we approached the gate, queue jumping was becoming all too frequent. A couple of policemen standing nearby paid no attention to the scuffles and we had to fend off the intruders in our vicinity ourselves as well as we could. My elder grandson remarked that in the USA one can be tasered by the police for such indiscipline.

It took two full hours to enter and clear the security check at the East Gate and then nearly another hour for ladies to join us because of our miscalculation of the length of the serpentine ladies' queue.  From their accounts it seemed that queue jumping was even more rampant in the ladies section.

The main entrance of the Taj is opposite the South Gate.  The three gates open into a compound in which the missing North Gate forms the entrance to the monument.  As you enter the main gate, there is a long verandah to either side of it (with a paid and well maintained toilet at the end of the right wing.)

The view of Taj as you enter is breathtaking and mesmerizing.  Though when you finally get up-close, you the signs of ageing become all too apparent.  But from afar, its beauty does cast a spell on the visitor.

Once inside, you are most likely to be accosted by, no, not a guide, but a professional photographer.  We engaged one of them, and he turned out to be a good choice.  Because of the huge crowds, getting a time slot on the benches best known for photos with Taj in the background is not an easy task.  Our photographer was not only good in his profession but also quite persuasive and aggressive when it came to getting our place in the queue and enforcing it.  After a rather drawn out photo session, he finally gave us the address of a shop beyond the South Gate from where to collect the deliverables.

The photographer also played a guide to us when asked about the two symmetrical red buildings flanking the Taj.  He told us that one was a mosque and the other a guest house.

After the photo session, we joined another queue for visiting the main building and the tombs within.  The queue was gargantuan and went around the Taj twice, once on the lower floor and then on the upper floor where you see the graves.  (Some say that the real graves are on the lower floor and the ones on the upper floor are merely a replica for visitors.)

The queue was long and queue jumpers exasperating.  Some did it brazenly, some on the sly, some by slipping a lie.  Some were aggressive while jumping the queue while others were jovial.  And the offenders ranged from 8 year old kids to very senior citizens!  As we completed the circle on the lower floor, and climbed the stairs to the upper floor, we discovered that we had to go around the building once again.  The high value ticket holders were allowed to go straight skipping the whole serpentine queue.  Though I must admit that going around the building on the two floors did give us an opportunity to observe it in great detail, which many of the high value ticket holders chose to do later on their own.  We also got to see repairs being carried out by artisans.

From up close on the upper floor, you notice the cracks and discoloration in the marble at several places.  As I said earlier, these signs of ageing are visible only from up-close.  The marble tiles on the terrace on the upper floor are in bad shape and need replacement at several places.

I did not mention earlier that before entering the main building, the Taj, you have to either deposit your shoes in safe custody or have to carry shoe covers.  The covers are complimentary with high-value tickets.  The normal ticket holders have an option to buy it from many vendors while waiting in the queue outside the main gate.  We had purchased six pairs for ourselves and many others too had done so.  However, these covers are so bad and flimsy that they are reduced to tatters by the time you go around the building in the queue.  Many had discarded the covers on the terrace itself giving it a shabby look.  Those who were more thoughtful were given an option to dispose it off in a receptacle at the exit from the main building.

We were tired and it was afternoon by the time we exited.  My son went to the south gate to collect the photographs, and the rest of us exited from the East Gate.  Across the road there was a shop selling memorabilia with a tea shop attached to it.  We had samosas and tea and then did some shopping there.  While doing so we discovered that prices paid by our group for some items at Fatehpur Sikri were a few times the price at which the shop offered it!

We walked back down to the car parking and started on our journey back to Lucknow.

PS: While purchasing the tickets online, we were under the impression that the high-value tickets were only for foreigners because that is what the website said.  A high value ticket costs ₹1000 as against ₹40 for normal tickets.  After the long queues that we faced, we made inquiries and were told that the high-value ticket can be purchased by anyone willing to shell out the prescribed amount.  It may be advisable to go for the high-value tickets if you are not at the peak of fitness or don't have the whole day to spend at the Taj.  Though, with the high-value ticket you do miss witnessing the funny, infuriating, innovative and in-your-face styles of jumping a queue.  Also, many 1K ticket holders do take their time going round the monument afterwards convincing the low-value queued up visitors that they are not jumping the queue.  This is something that the low-value ticket holders compulsorily do.  The high-ticket buyers also get complementary shoe covers, a bottle of water and free access to the Public Toilet.

Tuesday, January 16, 2018

Agra Visit (III)

Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary:
(Continued from Part II of this post series)


This photo of Keoladeo National Park is courtesy of TripAdvisor

Though the name Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary lingers on, the national park has now been named "Keoladeo National Park (KNP.)"  This did initially confuse me as I was looking for a signage with the old name.

KNP is about 25 kms from Fatehpur Sikri.  The road is good and we reached the park in time, about 2 hours before the scheduled closure.  My son joined the ticket queue while I looked around and made inquiries.  The sanctuary gate is about 1.5 kms away from the ticketing gate.  Private vehicles are not allowed beyond the ticketing gate.  There is a Rajasthan Tourism Hotel just outside the sanctuary gate and the guests may drive down to the Lodge.

As our party was tired because of the Fatehpur Sikri tour, walking down to the sanctuary was ruled out.  There was a cycle rental but they had run out of bicycles.  The only other option was to hire rickshaws at ₹150 per hour and the minimum estimated time for a quick visit was 2 hours.  As there were six of us, we had to hire 3 rickshaws as each is designed to seat no more than 2 persons.  A few guides were available and if we hired one, naturally yet another rickshaw will be needed for this person.  As we did not have much time at our disposal, we hired just three rickshaws and pushed off without further haggling.  Other tourists too were doing the same.

The road was bad and the rickshaw-pullers did have a haggard look and they kept pulling the rickshaw instead of pedalling.  Two of the elder pullers were talkative while the third, a young lad, was the quiet type.  On the way the rickshaw pullers did stop a few times even before the park entrance and pointed out to some local looking birds.  One of them described them as migrants from Bangladesh, while the other said it was a local bird.  The first one nodded in agreement and added that the bird had settled down in this area a long time ago.  They also showed us a few peacocks roaming around a Hanuman Temple close to the road.

Though there was no mention of this mode of transport at the entrance, on our way we did see a battery powered car carrying a few passengers.  Upon inquiry, the rickshaw pullers said that it was meant only for VIP visitors.  Later, we also saw a vehicle inside the park belonging to some government official.  Power does have its perquisites!  One or two private cars too were seen on the road to the park entrance.  We were told that they belonged to guests staying at the Rajasthan Tourism Bungalow and will not be allowed to enter the park.

A little before the main entrance lies a museum named after famous ornithologist Dr Salim Ali.  The rickshaw pullers stopped there and encouraged us to spend some time at the museum.  They particularly talked about a statue of a bird that is studded with Swarovski crystals worth several million rupees.  The museum was good, but there was no staff around to greet and brief the visitors and we exited rather quickly apparently to the chagrin of the rickshaw pullers.

It was almost 45 minutes by the time we entered the Park. Once inside, the change in the landscape was noticeable.  We were in the wetlands for which this park is known.  We, along with other rickshaws riding visitors, did stop over every 50 meters or so to look at a bird or other wild animals like deer, jackals, bulls et al.  At our fourth or fifth stop and just as we were starting to feel that the pains we had taken to visit the park were worthwhile, one of the rickshaw pullers informed us that the first hour of hire was about to be over.  He also cautioned us that if we go farther, we might cross the two hour mark indicated by us and will have to shell out another ₹150 per rickshaw.  I think that similar caution was sounded by other rickshaw pullers too, because most of the rickshaws turned back from that point.  Another consideration was that the sun was also about to set and the gates were to be closed at sunset.

On the way back the rickshaw pullers seemed to undergo a sudden transformation!  They lost their perpetually tired look and started pedalling vigorously instead of pulling the rickshaw.  We reached the main entrance in much less than an hour!  Had they displayed the same energy on their way to the park, we would easily have got another quarter of an hour to spend in the wetlands.
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As we started back for Agra, we requested the driver to stop over for a cup of tea.  His reply got us much worried.  He said that it would be advisable to stop only after we had crossed back into the state of UP.  The reason given by him was as follows.  The taxi was registered in UP and had an All India Permit.  Yet, according to the information given by the driver, we were technically required to pay a fee of close to ₹1000 for entering Rajasthan state.  As it had not been paid, we were liable to pay 10 times by way of fine if challenged by a policeman.  We cursed him for not giving this information to us earlier.  However we were into UP pretty soon and could breathe easy and enjoy our tea.

The lessons learnt are as follows:

  • If you plan to visit Keoladeo National Park, spare one whole day for it and stay at the Rajasthan tourism Bungalow.  The Bungalow, as mentioned earlier, is just outside the main entrance to the Park.
  • If your taxi does not have a Rajasthan state registration, do pay the requisite entry fee.  It does not apply to private cars.
  • If you not staying in the Govt Tourist Bungalow, arrive early so as to be able to spend 5 to 6 hours at the park.
  • If you can walk 7 to 8 kilometers, walking is the best option.  Next best will be to rent a bicycle.  Keep the rickshaw as the last option.  The ride is not comfortable and 6 hours will set you back by ₹900 per rickshaw.
  • Do carry good binoculars. Licensed rickshawpullers and guides are supposed to have binoculars and the rental / guide fee includes use of binoculars.  The ones we hired were not licensed but were still operating taking advantage of huge demand.
Government will do well to arrange battery cars for visitors. This would make things easy for everyone.

Back to the hotel, we had dinner and went to bed early so we could get up early for our visit to the Taj Mahal.  An account of that will form the fourth and the last post in this series.



Monday, January 8, 2018

Agra Visit (I)

Part I - Agra Fort and Reaching Fatehpur Sikri

Recently I visited Agra with my whole family including next and next++ generations.  I had made hotel bookings well in advance and also booked an Innova taxi that could carry all six of us.  However I remained apprehensive because of news of violence against some foreign tourists and huge crowds expected in Agra because of the weekend and Christmas holidays.

The journey to Agra on the newly consturcted Lucknow-Agra expressway was pleasant.  The expressway is very well constructed and a part of it is an airstrip where fighter jets can land and did land making a big news only a few months ago.  Three rest areas for being constructed on either side of the e-way.  Though these are still under construction, we did stop over at one for a biobreak.  The toilets were sparking clean.  As we talked about it, our driver remarked, "Just wait till people actually start using it!"

The toll on the e-way was still in trial phase, and we saved the toll tax both ways.  I understand that it is about to be launched in a few days from now.

The journey from Lucknow to Agra is about 4 hours and we reached in early afternoon.  We decided to visit the Agra Fort first and then check into the hotel.  We had purchased e-tickets in advance from the website of Archiology Survey of India.

There indeed was a huge crowd at the fort.  We noticed some people near the ticket window who were scanning the visitors and did look like guides.  However none of them approached us.  As we entered the premises, we were accosted by a guide who said that he was an ASI approved guide and showed his id to support the claim.  He said that his official fees were 685 but he would charge us only 500.  Though, he settled for Rs. 400.  We asked him to speak English for the sake of the kids who are more at home in that language.

The kids found his English hard to decipher and excused themselves so that they could roam around with me and just read the inscriptions on stone tablets.  The guide did not add much value to what we knew and what was available on the inscriptions. The only interesting thing that he told was that 75% of the fort was now in military’s control and off bounds for the public.  However he did click lots of pictures for us and that was appreciated.

We stayed back for the light and sound show.  We had to wait for a little more than an hour for the English show.  The show was terrible. Lights just moved from one area to another without much significance. People got bored and started leaving in the middle of the show.  A group of youngsters also raised slogans of “Bharat Mata ki Jai" for no reason except mention of Hindu wives of Mughal Kings. We, too, left before the end and proceeded to the Hotel where we had a good night’s sleep.

The next day we proceeded to Fatehpur Sikri. After exiting Agra, we had to drive on a really bad road which merged into a proper highway a few kilometers ahead.  A little before the entrance to the monument our car was stopped.  Our driver persisted and finally we were issued a parking ticket for ₹100 and allowed to go past.  After 100 meters or so, we cam to the entrance.  Our driver tried to bluff his way past the gate by telling the security that we were some VIPs from Lucknow but we asked him to back off.  As we stepped down, we were accosted by a person who offered to be our guide for a modest fee of ₹100.  The kids immediately rebelled, and we tried to shrug off the guide.  However, he persisted and lowered his fee to ₹70!  Finally, the offer was taken up and the kids had a pact with me to keep away from the guide and just roam around as they wished.

Later we realized the reason behind the desperately low guide fees, and that would be the subject matter of our next post in the series.